There’s something wonderfully refreshing about the ROK Presso Smartshot in an age where every coffee machine seems desperate to connect to Wi-Fi, download firmware updates and scream at you via a touchscreen before delivering a mediocre flat white.

This thing just makes espresso. Really, really good espresso.

At first glance, the Presso Smartshot looks la bit like a giant corkscrew, but get it on any kitchen counter and we’d guarantee it will draw attention from guests. Available in a wonderfully muted Soft Teal finish, alongside black and warm grey options, the compact manual espresso maker channels the sort of retro-futuristic design language you’d expect to find in a boutique Scandinavian furniture store.

There’s exposed metalwork, a lovely wooden portafilter handle and two spring-loaded lever arms that rise dramatically into the air before being pressed down to extract a shot.

We’ll admit, we went into this expecting style over substance. Manual espresso makers can often feel fiddly, messy and overly dependent on perfect grind sizes or barista-level technique. The Smartshot largely sidesteps all of that.

“It avoids the trap so many modern coffee gadgets fall into: overcomplicating things for the sake of looking clever”

ROK uses a pressurised basket design that’s far more forgiving than traditional manual espresso setups, meaning you can use anything from espresso-fine to cafetiere-coarse grounds and still get a surprisingly rich, creamy shot out the other side.

In practice, it’s ridiculously straightforward. Add coffee, pour in boiling water, raise the arms and press them down slowly. That’s basically it. Just watch a golden crema slowly drip from the portafilter.

The espresso produced during our time with it was rich, smooth and topped with a satisfyingly thick crema that felt a world away from the weak, watery nonsense many pod machines churn out. More importantly, the process itself feels engaging, with the reward being great coffee.

ROK claims the Smartshot can generate between six and 10 bars of pressure, which is enough to produce authentic espresso territory rather than merely strong coffee.

Another huge plus is the size. Weighing around 4lbs and requiring zero electricity, it’s compact enough to stash away easily or even throw into a bag for weekends away, camping trips or office use. We’d be tempted to pack it away, complete with some freshly ground coffee, on any road trip.

At £159 in the UK, the Presso Smartshot isn’t exactly cheap for a manual coffee maker, but it feels every bit like a premium object.

More importantly, it avoids the trap so many modern coffee gadgets fall into: overcomplicating things for the sake of looking clever.